Thursday 30 June 2011

Design techniques- Sketching over Photos

As a costume designer showing your design sketches can be a really daunting prospect. After all, to start with, the sketch is all you have to clearly show your ideas. They have to be detailed, good quality, full of character and able to give everyone a clear idea about what you intend the costume to look like. That's a LOT of pressure for a little sketch. Especially if someone else has the responsibility of realising your design you need your sketch to communicate everything.

Over the years i have experimented with a few different techniques on how to really show your ideas as you intend them.

This first one is a technique that i developed whilst i was studying Theatre Design at Rose Bruford College. It seriously got me through my final year! I traweled through photography books finding any full length photos of people that i could find. I photocopied them all so i had a good stock. Then i got out my watercolours, acrylics and drawing pens and built up my design with various mediums over the top of the photos. This was really successful because it instantly gave my costumes a really humanity and character. Here are some examples...

Costume Sketches for Peter Grimes, an Opera by Benjamin Britten-



Also, here is another example from a site specific piece i design called 'Convictions'-

That Green Dress we all want!



I woke up this morning and bizarrely the first thing that popped into my head was Keira Knightley's green dress from Atonement. Therefore, i thought i would stick a little bit about it in my blog.

I really didn't like the film Atonement, apart from the last 5 minutes (but i won't spoil it if you haven't seen it yet!) I very rarely see films that i really don't like, but i found myself very bored throughout this one. I would like to see it again just to make sure i am not mistaken. However, I am so glad i watched it, even if just to see this beautiful dress in action.

This stunning, green dress designed by Jacqueline Durran has been voted the best movie costume of all time by Sky Movies. I wouldn't go quite as far but it is definitely the most iconic costume of the noughties.

While not being completely historically accurate the dress does it's job perfectly. I oozes of wealth and sex appeal, whilst being glamorous and timeless. If an actress wore this on the red carpet anytime from the 1920s to the present day she wouldn't look out of place. The colour, was apparently requested by the director Joe Wright, and is so striking and chosen perfectly. After seeing this dress i couldn't imagine it being any other way. Durran designed so well to suit the slim framed Keira Knightley. On her it is the pinnacle of elegance, but unfortunately on most other people would probably look quite frumpy.

Here are some pictures of the gorgeous creation.





Victorian Poetry.





I just thought i'd share with you a couple of works by my favourite poet, Robert Browning.

At school i completely despised all poetry. Then my teacher introduced me to Robert Browning and i realised that there really is something for everyone. Looking back i now realise that the reason i loved them so much is because they read like a short film script. His poems ,like many other Victorian poems, are like short stories. Whenever i read them i like to envisage my own film version of the text. This is poetry that i can get along with. An ongoing project of mine is definitely going to raise the funds to make one of these into a short film.

Here are 2 of my favourites. What do you think?

Porphyria's Lover

The rain set early in tonight,
The sullen wind was soon awake,
It tore the elm-tops down for spite,
And did its worst to vex the lake:
I listened with heart fit to break.
When glided in Porphyria; straight
She shut the cold out and the storm,
And kneeled and made the cheerless grate
Blaze up, and all the cottage warm;
Which done, she rose, and from her form
Withdrew the dripping cloak and shawl,
And laid her soiled gloves by, untied
Her hat and let the damp hair fall,
And, last, she sat down by my side
And called me. 
When no voice replied,
She put my arm about her waist,
And made her smooth white shoulder bare,
And all her yellow hair displaced,
And, stooping, made my cheek lie there,
And spread, o'er all, her yellow hair,
Murmuring how she loved me — she
Too weak, for all her heart's endeavor,
To set its struggling passion free
From pride, and vainer ties dissever,
And give herself to me forever.
But passion sometimes would prevail,
Nor could tonight's gay feast restrain
A sudden thought of one so pale
For love of her, and all in vain:
So, she was come through wind and rain.
Be sure I looked up at her eyes
Happy and proud; at last I knew
Porphyria worshiped me: surprise
Made my heart swell, and still it grew
While I debated what to do.
That moment she was mine, mine, fair,
Perfectly pure and good: I found 
A thing to do, and all her hair
In one long yellow string I wound
Three times her little throat around,
And strangled her. No pain felt she;
I am quite sure she felt no pain.
As a shut bud that holds a bee,
I warily oped her lids: again
Laughed the blue eyes without a stain.
And I untightened next the tress
About her neck; her cheek once more
Blushed bright beneath my burning kiss:
I propped her head up as before,
Only, this time my shoulder bore
Her head, which droops upon it still:
The smiling rosy little head,
So glad it has its utmost will,
That all it scorned at once is fled,
And I, its love, am gained instead!
Porphyria's love: she guessed not how
Her darling one wish would be heard.
And thus we sit together now,
And all night long we have not stirred,
And yet God has not said a word!

My Last Duchess

That's my last Duchess' painted on the wall,
Looking as if she were alive. I call
That piece a wonder, now: Fra Pandolf’s hands
Worked busily a day, and there she stands.
Will’t please you sit and look at her? I said
“Fra Pandolf” by design, for never read
Strangers like you that pictured countenance,
The depth and passion of its earnest glance,
But to myself they turned (since none puts by
The curtain I have drawn for you, but I)
And seemed as they would ask me, if they durst,
How such a glance came there; so, not the first
Are you to turn and ask thus. Sir, ’twas not
Her husband’s presence only, called that spot
Of joy into the Duchess’ cheek: perhaps
Fra Pandolf chanced to say “Her mantle laps
Over my lady’s wrist too much,” or “Paint
Must never hope to reproduce the faint
Half-flush that dies along her throat”: such stuff
Was courtesy, she thought, and cause enough
For calling up that spot of joy. She had
A heart—how shall I say?—too soon made glad,
Too easily impressed; she liked whate’er
She looked on, and her looks went everywhere.
Sir, ’twas all one! My favour at her breast,
The dropping of the daylight in the West,
The bough of cherries some officious fool
Broke in the orchard for her, the white mule
She rode with round the terrace—all and each
Would draw from her alike the approving speech,
Or blush, at least. She thanked men,—good! but thanked
Somehow—I know not how—as if she ranked
My gift of a nine-hundred-years-old name
With anybody’s gift. Who’d stoop to blame
This sort of trifling? Even had you skill
In speech—(which I have not)—to make your will
Quite clear to such an one, and say, “Just this
Or that in you disgusts me; here you miss,
Or there exceed the mark”—and if she let
Herself be lessoned so, nor plainly set
Her wits to yours, forsooth, and made excuse,
—E’en then would be some stooping; and I choose
Never to stoop. Oh sir, she smiled, no doubt,
Whene’er I passed her; but who passed without
Much the same smile? This grew; I gave commands;
Then all smiles stopped together. There she stands
As if alive. Will’t please you rise? We’ll meet
The company below, then. I repeat,
The Count your master’s known munificence
Is ample warrant that no just pretence
Of mine for dowry will be disallowed;
Though his fair daughter’s self, as I avowed
At starting, is my object. Nay, we’ll go
Together down, sir. Notice Neptune, though,
Taming a sea-horse, thought a rarity,
Which Claus of Innsbruck cast in bronze for me!

Wednesday 29 June 2011

Sandy Powell - Design Inspiration!!


Ah Sandy Powell, 3 Academy Awards behind her, 9 nominations, 2 Baftas and career to die for. What i wouldn't give to be her! At this moment in time she is one of the leaders in the Costume Design world. 

Her films include The Other Boleyn Girl, Shutter Island, The Tempest, Young Victoria, Shakespeare in Love, Mrs Henderson Presents, Gangs of New York and Interview with a Vampire... to name a few...

I think the reason why i love her so much is her attention to details. As far as i am concerned it takes a particular vision to design period costumes and she definitely has it. So often you see period clothing in films either looking like it is a genuine 200 year old item or so new that the actors just look uncomfortable and odd. The skill that Powell has is that she can make clothing look real. She has the ability to destress things just enough to make them look lived in. When i see her costumes it feels like that i actually what they would have looked like. The actors always seem at ease wearing her creations and it makes me feel that i would be perfectly comfortable wearing a Victorian dress down the street.

An example of what i mean could e the costumes for The Other Boleyn Girl. Ever since i was a small girl i have had an interest in Anne Boleyn. Looking at her fashion in the very 2 dimensional portraits, i always thought she looked so uncomfortable. However, Powell's Tudor gowns seem so real and believable. My particular favourite is the green dress worn by Natalie Portman and Anne Boleyn. The colour choice is just remarkably genius.


 




Here are some of her designs for Young Victoria. These deservedly earned her a Oscar and a Bafta!



Here are her most recent designs for The Tempest. Although i haven't seen the film (yet!) knowing The play very well this costume seems spot on. Prospera seems to have the perfect balance of power, magic, being a mother and being stranded on an island.


To finish this post here is a photo of the one and only Sandy Powell with one of her well deserved Oscars-


"A costume designer's contribution is to help make some believable characters, that's all."- Sandy Powell

"Unless of course the film requires it, I'm not interested in an exact replica of the period. I look at the period, how it should be, how it could be, and then I do my own version."- Sandy Powell

"There's a beauty in dirt. When I go to the movies, I think, 'Why is that dress so clean? The boat is going down and they look perfect.' You want to have beauty in a film, but if something looks a bit worn, a bit soiled, it usually has more depth."- Sandy Powell

Olivia Palermo - Reluctant Style Crush!!

Olivia Palermo - the Stylish girl that you love to hate. She may have had quite a bad press but there is no denying that this girl has some serious style! Anyone who has ever watched 'The City' will know of the rivalry between her and the darling Whitney Port. I always sit there watching the TV wanting her to fail at something... ANYTHING! However, she never gets it wrong and boy can she accessorise!

Olivia is a New Yorker who works as an accessories editor for Elle magazine. She is the epitome of New York Style- she is always bang on trend, pristine, powerful, with clean lines and immaculate hair. However, she stands out for me as she loves to mix it up a bit. I know that she likes to shop in Topshop alongside the likes of Armani. She not afraid to experiment with different patterns and textures. Though unfortunately for us mere style mortals she NEVER gets it wrong.

Here are some of my favourite outfits that she has worn. Please take note of how technically it's quite mis-matched but somehow works as an entire ensemble. A lot of this style is unique to her and i'm sure if anyone else ever tried to wear some of this it just wouldn't work. Only on Olivia Palermo...













Wandsworth's Cave of Wonders

Now when you think of all the amazing things to see in London it seems quite incredible that i am blogging about Wandsworth. Nevertheless, i feel that the Salvation Army shop on Wandsworth High Street deserves a special mention. Now i am somewhat a bit of an expert when it comes to London's charity shops; i seem to spend my whole life browsing through all the ones i see for interesting props. However, i am quite confident when i say that this one is the best. Fair enough, i doesn't have a very good selection of clothes, (In fact most of the clothes are actually hideous!) but when it comes to furniture, props, picture frames and random stuff this place is a genuine cave of wonders.
I popped in today and couldn't resist getting my camera out (Hipstmatic!) to take a few cheeky photos. Here are a few examples of what they had to offer today!









It took a LOT of self restraint on my part not to buy anything. I did succumb to one beauty though- A gorgeous dressing table stool for a mere £10! I've wanted one of these for so long but they've also been too expensive. This one is a but mucky and the fabric is a bit patchy but i love it. I'm going to give myself the mini project of renovating my new stool so that it can take the pride of pace in my bedroom.

Withnail and I, With Me Forever. I feel Unusual...


I have to admit, i am one of the many masses that name 'Withnail and I' as their favourite film. But why is it so popular?

For those of you who haven't seen this masterpiece you are missing out. The film is written and directed by Bruce Robinson and is a semi autobiographical account of his life in London during the 1960s. The story follows 2 out of work actors (played by Richard E. Grant and Paul McGann) who are desperate to escape the London misery. They embark on a holiday to the lake district with hilarious results. This film however is as gritty and thought provoking as it is funny.

When i actually watched this film for the first time i was bored rigid. When i kept hearing people going on about it i decided to watch it again... and i am so glad i did. If anything you need to have watched this film because people always quote it. (We've gone on holiday by mistake!) The strength of the script is particularly commendable. It just hits you with amazing quote, after amazing quote, after amazing quote. I feel that this is probably the main reason for the film being catapulted into a cult status.

Richard E. Grant's performance as 'Withnail' is outstanding. Grant is actually allergic to alcohol and the only time he had ever been drunk was when Robinson took him out to get into character, yet he portrays the most convincing drunkard i have ever seen. I find this quite remarkable.

I particularly love how this film is completey timeless. From the fashion, to haircuts, to the decor, you still see it all around today and probably will forever.   One day as a future project i would absolutely love to turn this story into a play.

From a design point of view this film is perfection. I can only imagine how much fun the Art Department must have had making their flat in London look as disgusting as possible. The amount of rubbish alone that they had to find to fill up the sink is amazing. I particularly love how everything looks like it was once probably the height of luxury (e.g. Withnail's suit cut on Saville Row) and has all been passed down to them.



Here are some never before seen still shots taken whilst on the set of 'Withnail and I'. Photos are by Murray Close-








And here is one of my favourite photos of Richard E Grant and Paul McGann


These days i even have a picture of 'Withnail and I' hanging on my wall.